Flooring is costly , but essential to a
successful remodel.
The best approach is to buy the best quality of the
kind of flooring you like and be prepared to maintain it for years.
Here are some FAQs and tips to keep in mind when
shopping for flooring
Can we put ceramic tile around our
pool?
Frost-proof ceramic tile works well on a patio, a porch or
around a swimming pool. While it won't survive really hard freezes without risk
of cracking, if you live in a temperate to warm climate, frost-proof tile is
available in a broad range of colors and patterns.
The cost
of tile depends on how it is installed. Installation on a slab is preferred and
cost effective. Installation over plywood isn't a good idea because plywood
expands and contracts with moisture and will cause the tile to crack. Instead,
use backerboard, but understand that it will cost several dollars a square foot
more.
I can't tell good quality carpet from bad. Can you
help me find a durable brand?
Good quality carpet is dense - thick and luxurious
between your toes. When you bend it, you don't see the backing. The best-wearing
fiber by far is nylon. It's durable and soil- and stain- resistant. Wool carpet
has subtle colors and is durable as well, but it's hard to care for and stains
easily. If you have pets or children, choose something
else.
The lowest grade carpets are made of polyester. While
polyester is much more attractive than it was a few years ago, it still won't
hold up like nylon or wool, which can be expected to last for as long as 20
years if installed over a good pad and cleaned
regularly.
We have a big family with kids who are constantly
running in and out and always spilling things on the floor. What should we be
looking for?
Many families choose tightly woven berber carpets -
available with or without a pattern. A pattern can camouflage wear and is useful
in high traffic areas. Multicolored berbers hide stains
effectively.
For bedrooms or other low-traffic areas where
elegance is desired, cut-pile carpet is a favorite. While footprints and vacuum
marks are obvious, cut pile is an attractive choice. If you choose a
light-colored carpet be sure to get one that has stain
protection.
For rooms that get a lot of traffic like
kitchens, playrooms and sun rooms, consider commercial grade carpet. It's a
great deal more attractive than it once was and the price is very reasonable.
Besides that, it wears like iron and cleans up beautifully. There are some
negatives. Commercial carpet doesn't feel soft when you lie on it and it doesn't
provide much in the way of insulation when it's installed on a slab. But all
things considered, it's a good alternative in many
situations.
Big tip:
Whichever carpet you choose,
it is particularly important to put a good pad underneath it. The most common
ones are made from bonded urethane, a sponge-rubber like material made from
waste urethane. Urethane pads come in various densities. The least dense (and
the cheapest) absorb moisture and humidity and tend to disintegrate under heavy
foot traffic. Let your carpet professional direct you toward a pad that is
suitable for the style of carpet you
purchased.
.
Are wood laminates and engineered hardwoods a good
alternative to classic hardwood?
A good hardwood floor that is well-cared for can last
for hundreds of years and still be as beautiful as it was the day it was laid.
Classic oak flooring made of ¾-inch solid hardwood was the standard flooring for
most homes built before 1970. In some parts of the country, its installation was
required by local building codes because of fire safety. These days, most people
buy prefinished hardwoods, which require no sanding or finishing and have a
durable top-wear layer.
Engineered hardwood is designed to
look like a solid hardwood floor. The top layer is 1/8-inch wood, in walnut,
cherry, ash, red oak, beech or maple. The remaining layers are plywood or other
wood products. The prefinished boards have a tough polyurethane finish. The
engineered wood won't expand and contract with temperature changes as much as
solid hardwood.
A traditional hardwood is not cheap, but it
can be sanded and refinished several times, while low-end, engineered hardwoods
cannot. When they wear out, they have to be
replaced.
Common Problems related to Hardwood
floors and Solutions to the
problems
Problem: cupping
Moisture imbalance through the thickness is the only
cause. The material was manufactured flat and was flat when installed. Job site
or occupant provided moisture is greater on the bottom of the piece than on the
top. Prove it with your moisture meter. Find the source of moisture and
eliminate it. Common moisture sources and their corrections
are:
Airborne (Relative Humidity) - dehumidify air space or (lack of
during heating season humidify air space); wet basement - ventilate, dehumidify;
crawlspace groundcover/vents, add exhaust fan on timer; lot topography - french
drain to remove; rain handling provisions - correct to drain away from house;
excessive lawn/garden moisture - reduce/waterproof foundation; leaks plumbing,
roof, doors - fix; don't hose patio; maintenance; correct capillary through slab
- install barrier, french drain, drain tiles. In kitchens, the dishwasher and
ice maker are notorious leakers.
Expansion is also the result of site
moisture and may have moved the floor tight to vertical surfaces. If so, remove
flooring along the wall, or saw cut, to relieve
pressure.
Solution;
Allow time. Time for the
corrections to take effect - to permit the floor to improve on its own. It may
become acceptable . After stabilized, sand flat and finish. Cost of corrections
should be for owner or builder to cover.
Problem: Crowning.
While moisture imbalance might be the cause (by
excessive moisture introduced on the finish side of the floor; i.e. water used
in maintenance, plumbing leaks overhead sprinkler system), it is more likely
that the floor was cupped (problem #I) and sanded flat thus removing the outer
edges, the sanding having been done at the wrong time, i.e., before corrections
were made and before the floor flattened on its own.
Solution
After the floor has
stabilized following corrections, sand flat and finish. Note: Some slight cup
and/or crown can and should be tolerated. It is common in wood floors,
especially in wider planks. It is, in many cases, seasonal in its occurrence and
can be minimized with lighting and furniture placement, by using beveled
products and by other than high gloss finish
Problem: Buckling
Generally an extreme moisture problem. See Problem #1
for sources and corrections. Inadequate expansion space, even "net fit"
(installer error) prevents normal expansion. On nailed products, insufficient
nailing, incorrect nails, incorrect sub floor construction. On glue down
product, incorrect mastic, insufficient mastic, wrong trowel used, inadequate
mastic transfer, sub floor separation, sub floor contamination.
Solution
If caught early, spot
repair/replacement may be possible. In many cases, however, pull, correct, and
relay/replace is more practical.
CRACKS
-SEPARATION BETWEEN INDIVIDUAL FLOORING PIECES- ABNORMAL CRACKS - LOOSE, NOISY, SQUEAKY FLOOR-
UNEVENNESS
The greatest cause, the elements. Dryness. As
moisture caused some earlier problems 1, the loss of moisture results in the
most frequent reason for shrinkage of individual pieces and cracks. Should a
floor have been exposed to problems 1, 2 & 3, then afterwards, "dried out",
cracks will develop. If subjected to extreme moisture, the edges of the wood (a
vegetable made up of cells), can crush, and subsequent drying and shrinkage can
present larger than normal cracks. Square edge (un-beveled) floors show cracks
more than beveled. White, light, pastel finished show cracks more than darker
wood-tone finished floors. Most cracks are seasonal - they show in dry months,
or the cold season when heating is required, and close during humid periods.
This type of separation and closing is considered rm 1. In solid 2 1/4" wide
strip oak floors, dry time cracks may be the width of a dimes' thickness
(1/32"). Wider boards will have wider cracks (and the reverse is
true).
Solution:
Add moisture to the air
space during dry periods. A constant Relative Humidity (RH) of 50% works in
concert with the manufacture of wood floors to provide stability in the floor.
Live with normal cracks or add humidity - its 'the owners' choice. Easy ways -
boil a pan of water on the stove, turn off bathroom exhaust fan, open dishwasher
after rinse cycle, a pan of water in furnace fan compartment, hang laundry to
dry in basement. Better yet, install humidifier to furnace controlled by a
humidistat set at 50% RH. In dry and warm climates, add moisture (pan or
humidifier) and run furnace "fan only".
Problem:
Cracks that are larger than normal, cluster or
localized, end separation, not uniform and not general throughout, do not close
up during humid months.
The greatest cause, edge crush from prior
exposure to extreme moisture, especially solid, flat grain flooring (and may be
general throughout). If surface coated (such as polyurethane), edges of some
adjacent pieces may be literally "glued" together, or panelized, and shrinkage
cracks multiplied at the weakest points. (See note that follows) "Hot Spots" in
the undersurface such as poorly insulated heating ducts, hot water plumbing
lines, radiant heating system (if so, should be laminated products only), the
new "Instant Hot Water" feature, register openings, heat from refrigerator
motor, check nail spacing with stud finder. With adhesive applied floors, early
foot traffic, incorrect adhesive, amount transferred or used (most noticed in
traffic pattern). 3/4" thick solid parquet with no return control (cork) in
expansion space, generally indicated by center of the field is tight, with gaps
around the walls. Note if there is a pattern to the cracks, such as 4' X 4' or
4' X 8' indicating sub floor change or weakness. Glued over sheet vinyl may show
6' cracks from shrinkage or loose vinyl. Does the pattern of cracks convey a
relationship with foundation or slab cracks and/or settlement. Check nail
spacing on solid products take wood moisture content reading and if it is within
normal range for your market and the wood is undersize, drying was improper
prior to manufacture. If wood MC is normal and wood is "on size" or over, the
wood was wet prior to installation.
Solution:
In addition to obvious
corrections suggested under it cause" (i.e., add insulation between heat ducts
and sub floor for "hot spots", pull, add adhesive, relay, adjust 3/4 parquet, add expansion
joint control, add cross bracing under weak sub floor), attempt to elevate the
relative humidity in the air space and after sufficient time has passed to
confirm that the problem has stabilized, fill the cracks with the appropriate
color-matched fill. Re-coat if necessary. Last resort, pull and replace - note
however, that if corrections are not made, chances are that replacement will
develop the same problem. Note: When a floor shows "panelizing" and a surface
coat has been used, you might choose to sand then finish with seal and wax, or
if surface finish is required, use a sealer first rather than the stronger
finish directly on the new floor.
Problem:Noisy,
squeaky floor
The greatest cause is usually Inadequate nailing,
flexing weak sub floor system, nailed over particle board type sub floor. Check
sub floor thickness and joist direction. Insufficient or incorrect adhesive.
Subjected to excess moisture, excessive drying.
Solution:
Add face nails,
counter-sink&putty. Strengthen sub floor from below. Inject adhesive or
pull-add-relay. Lubricate squeaks with graphite, wax, baby powder. Wedge sub
floor up from joists.
Problem: Uneven floor
The cause is
simply the wood joist system - sub floor warped and loose, joists warped or
fractured, support pillars settled, perimeter foundation settlement.
Concrete slab system - slab cracked and
settled.
Solution:
Correct, strengthen
substructure, repair sub floor, splice joists, add joists. Structural, failure
is not the wood floor contractors domain usually. Owner needs a general
contractor for repairs prior to wood floor corrections.
Problem: Scratches
and traffic pattern early on
This is usually caused by Improper maintenance,
grit, water, strong soaps, dog toenails, chair legs.
Solution:
Correct maintenance,
especially vacuum, not just broom sweep. Clip dog's nails, felt chair leg
glides, appropriate exterior walk-off mats to prevent grit, area rugs especially
in front of kitchen sinks. Re-coat if necessary - owner pays.
Problem: Peeling finish
Probably caused by stain not drying completely.
Excessive burnishing. Early coats not dry. Skipped screening between coats.
Product incompatibility. Stain not sufficiently wiped leaving heavy pigment on
surface (is finish peeling from finish or wood?), improper tack. Surface
contaminated such as wax, oil soap maintenance.
Solution:
If de-lamination from wood
surface, sand and refinish. If surface only, screen and re-coat.
Problem: Pet pee-pee
stains
Solution: For the most part minor pet stains
will lessen or get lighter with sanding. Repeated stains (the darker the deeper
is the rule) will not sand out. Several consideration must be given. 1 - Will
the floors be refinished ? If so, a light or medium colored stain can be use to
help "cover or lessen" the stains. Sometimes a "painted" design on the floor
will cover the stains, or the use of area carpets over those stained areas. 2 -
Removal and repair will give BEST results, if time, and budget allowances are
made.
CAUSE:
Moisture from maintenance,
spills, constant source, condensation causing surface grain raise. Poor sanding,
edging, scraping. Contamination in finish during dry time.
CURE:
Correct moisture source.
Lightly sand or screen. Re-coat.
Color - not right,
changed
CAUSE:
Customer expectation, poor
sampling, lighting over the floor and room colorings. In correct maintenance
including residue of cleaners, waxes, etc. (i.e., Oil Soap). Wood itself changes
color with age ("Patina"). Extreme hot sunlight through South/West facing
windows. Color different under rugs or low furniture from lack of exposure.
Bleaching is unpredictable - don't oversell expected results.
CURE:
Compare with sample. Explain lighting
and colors. Remove residue and correct maintenance procedures. Move rugs and
colors will even out in time. Shade large windows.
Dents - Yes, wood
dents.
CAUSE:
High heels. Dropped heavy
objects, metal tips on furniture legs. Unprotected rolling of heavy appliances
such as refrigerator or freezer.
CURE:
Remove high heels or maintain
proper heel-tip protectors. Provide large felt or rubber protectors under heavy
furniture legs. Roll heavy casters over plywood protection only. For individual
dents where wood fibers are not broken, cover with a dampened cloth and press
with an electric iron to draw fibers up. Last resort sand and finish - owner
pays.
Stains /
discoloration
CAUSE:
Water from spills, water from
continual source leading to mildew (black) or decay (brown/white) or alkali
(white) or bleeding up of adhesive. Urine (dark) from pets, wet diapers.
Unprotected metal chair legs. Improper maintenance with water or harsh
chemicals. Traffic pattern wear. Excessive harsh sunlight (wood looks starved
near South or West facing windows). Light deprivation under area rugs, large low
furniture. Be sure to observe if only one piece of flooring is affected, or does
the stain continue across adjacent pieces. Oil soap residue.
CURE:
Correct water
source, let dry. Minimize sunlight. Relocate area rugs. Correct maintenance
procedures and products. Dark stains, lightly abrade surface with fine
sandpaper, feather out area, dampen cloth with 50/50 household bleach &
water and lay on stain for 30 minutes, remove, let dry, re-color if necessary.
Waxed floors, clean with renovator or paint thinner (combustible) and re-wax.
Whiteness/cloudy surface finish, clean and buff. If all fails, screen and coat,
sand and refinish, replace severe boards.
-
How can scratches or stains on wood flooring be
repaired?
First aid for wood floors depends on the
type of surface. In the following chart, solutions in the middle column are for
floors finished with wax or penetrating stains. Solutions in the right-hand
column are for floors finished with polyurethane or other surface
finishes.
Remember when removing stains from any wood floor, always
begin at the outer edge of the stain and work toward the middle. Always use the
wood flooring manufacturer's cleaning, repair and finish products when
known. The following problems & cures are for surface
finishes:
- Cigarette burns:
Most common burns
can be treated with touch up kit (rub with steelwool / sandpaper, stain as
needed, touchup finish).
If the burn is deeper, boards/pieces may have
to be replaced & refinished, a wood floor contractor is strongly
suggested.
Chewing gum, crayon, or candle
wax-
Apply a plastic bag filled with ice on top of the deposit
until it is brittle enough to crumble off. Clean the area with a product made
for urethane finishes.
Dried milk or food stains-Heel scuffs-Dark spots
and ink stains--Oil and grease stains-Water stains or white
spots
Use a cleaner developed specifically for urethane
finishes. For stubborn spots, scrub using the urethane cleaner and a scrub pad
made for urethane floors.
High Heel Shoe Dents -1/4 inch spike heels
will cause dents that require professional repair.
Mold
or mildew - Use a cleaner developed for urethane finishes. If the mold or
mildew lies underneath the surface finish, sand and refinish the
area.
Scratches-Repair with a touch-up kit for
urethane finishes, available from any wood flooring retailer. For small
surface abrasions (scratch is white) a small amount of "Endust" of a soft
cloth, wiping with scratch direction will bring back to floor original
color
Solution: must first be rid of active
termites by professional exterminator. Repair structural damage. Pull and
replace damaged floorboards, sand and refinish. Heavy infestation of powder
post beetle, handle as above. When powder post is occasional, few boards
especially in new floors, treat individual openings immediately with
insecticide (from hardware or garden shop) injected by syringe into holes, or
aerosol insect spray through a straw. Usually will not disturb finish. Have
owner watch for new evidence (dust piles) and treat again. After 2-3 months
holes may be filled. Termites will not be associated with the flooring and
costs will be the responsibility of the owner. Powder post may be in new
flooring materials. Immediately on first report notify your floor supplier.
Prompt action by all will minimize costs involved. Check all surroundings for
infected wood molding, furniture (especially bamboo and antiques). If old
infestation is in other materials the owner must stand the costs involved in
floor repairs.
Wood Damage by
Termites:
Wood damaged by subterranean termites is often not
noticed because the exterior surface usually must be removed to see the
damage. However, galleries can be detected by tapping the wood every few
inches with the handle of a screwdriver. Damaged wood sounds hollow, and the
screwdriver may even break through into the galleries. Subterranean termite
feeding follows the grain of the wood and only the soft springwood is
attacked. Unlike dry wood termites or other wood boring insects,
subterranean termites do not push wood particles or pellets (fecal material)
to the outside, but rather use it in the construction of their tunnels. This
debris, along with sand and soil particles, is used as a form of
plaster.
SUBTERRANEAN TERMITE PREVENTION AND
CONTROL
The best control of subterranean termites is prevention.
The best time to provide protection against termites is during the planning
and construction of a building. Prevention should include: 1-Removal of all
stumps, roots, wood, and similar materials from the building site before
construction is begun. 2 -Removal of all form boards and grade stakes used in
construction. 3-There should be no contact between the building woodwork and
the soil or fill. Exterior woodwork should be located a minimum of 6 inches
above ground and beams in crawl spaces at least 18 inches above ground to
provide ample space to make future inspections. 4- Ventilation openings in
foundations should be designed to prevent dead air pockets and of sufficient
size to assure frequent changes of air - at least 2 sq. ft. to 25 running feet
of outside foundation wall. This helps keep the ground dry and unfavorable for
termites. 5- Thorough annual inspections should be conducted to discover
evidence of termite activity such as shelter tubes on foundation surfaces,
discarded wings or adult termites. 6- Any wood that contacts the soil, such as
fence posts, poles and general foundation structures, should be commercially
pressure treated.
POST-CONSTRUCTION TREATMENT OF
STRUCTURES
Crawl Space Treatment Dig narrow trenches along both
the inside and outside of foundation walls and around piers and chimney bases,
and apply diluted spray as described above. Also be sure to trench and treat
around sewer pipes, conduits and all other structural members in contact with
the soil. Apply the insecticide to the trenches. The insecticide must be
applied to both the inside and outside of the foundation and also around
piers, chimney bases, pipes, conduits and any other structures in contact with
the soil. The trench should be as deep as the top of the footing. Mix the
insecticide with water as recommended on the pesticide label. Apply the
diluted spray at the rate of 2 gal. per 5 linear feet of trench. Mix the
insecticide with the soil as it is being replaced.
Concrete Slab Construction
It is
possible to trench around the outside of a slab after it has been poured, as
described above, but this alone usually will not give satisfactory control
because the termite colony may be entering the structure from the soil under
the slab. Homeowners are not equipped to treat under slabs after the slab
foundation is completed. A professional pest control operator usually is
needed to do sub-slab chemical injections. Most subterranean termites feed
along the grain of the wood, eating the spring wood and leaving the summer
wood. The Formosan termite feeds on both and forms a hollow. In Hawaii, where
unprotected homes were built over large colonies, records show that the
Formosan subterranean termite caused major structural damage in 6 months and
almost complete destruction in 2 years (Tamashiro 1984). Moisture Requirements
The Formosan termite, like all subterranean termites, uses the soil for a
source of moisture. However, Formosan termite colonies can obtain moisture
from plumbing or roofing leaks.
INSPECTION OF CONCRETE SLAB
CONSTRUCTION
Inspect for evidence of termite activity near any
plumbing that goes through the slab. Look for tubes around baseboards. Tap
baseboards around walls. Check for wood which is in contact with the
soil.
